Tap and Mixer Installation.Done Right.

Getting the match right

A tap has to suit the sink or basin, the water pressure, the wall or bench it sits on and the way you use it. Measure hole spacing and the space behind the tap. Check clearance under windows and cupboards for tall spouts. Look at the flow rating and the WELS water rating on the packaging, and check that the product is marked for use on Australian plumbing.

What installation involves

The plumber isolates the water, removes the old tap, cleans the surface, fits the new tap and seals, connects flexible hoses or pipes, checks isolation valves, turns the water on slowly and tests for leaks at each joint. Wall mixers and shower sets involve opening the wall or working from behind, and can take longer.

Hot and cold the right way round

Hot is on the left on most Australian taps and cold on the right, but older and imported fittings vary. A plumber checks the connections and tests with a thermometer or by feel, since reversed connections can scald. Tell the plumber if you are fitting a tap with a thermostatic or temperature limit.

Leaks after a tap change

A small weep at the base or under the bench after a new tap often comes from a connection that needs another quarter turn, a misplaced washer or a poorly seated seal. Check under the bench with a dry tissue once the water has run for a few minutes. If it persists, call back the plumber.

Isolation valves and old pipework

Each tap should have its own isolation valve so it can be shut off without turning off the house. If the valves are missing or seized, fitting new ones while the tap is out saves trouble later. Old flexible hoses are best replaced with the new tap, and corroded fittings can snap when loosened, so allow time and parts for surprises.

Kitchen, bathroom and laundry taps

Kitchen taps need height for filling pots and often a swivel spout or pull-out spray. Bathroom basin taps suit short spouts that do not splash. Laundry taps need to take hoses or a trough. Choose the style for the job, not only the look, and check how it will be cleaned.

Special taps

Filter taps, boiling and chilled water units, sensor taps and wall-mounted mixers each have extra requirements such as power, filters or in-wall rough-in. Ask what the unit needs before you buy, and who services it.

Questions people ask about tap installation

Can I supply my own tap?

Often yes. Check dimensions, the connection type and the warranty terms.

Do I need new flexible hoses?

Usually yes. Old hoses perish and are cheap to replace while the tap is off.

How long does a tap swap take?

A straightforward swap is quick. Wall mixers and tight spaces take longer.

Is my water pressure suitable?

Check the tap rating against your pressure. Very low or high pressure can cause problems.

Pull-out sprays, swivel spouts and clearances

A kitchen tap with a pull-out spray needs room under the bench for the hose and a counterweight to move freely. A swivel spout needs clearance from walls and cupboards. If your sink sits under a window, check the spout height and sill. Ask the plumber to dry-fit the tap before sealing it, since these problems are easier to catch before everything is tightened.

A mixer that sits too low on a basin can splash. A very high gooseneck on a shallow basin sprays water outside the bowl.

Warranty, finish and care

Check the warranty period and what it covers: the cartridge, the finish and the body can differ. Chrome is easy to clean. Brushed and coloured finishes can mark with strong cleaners. Ask for the model number to be written on the invoice, so spare cartridges can be bought later.

Choosing between a mixer, hob tap and separate hot and cold taps

A single-lever mixer is easy to use with wet hands and gives fine control of temperature, which suits kitchens and most bathrooms. Separate hot and cold taps cost less to replace but make it harder to get the temperature right at the spout. A hob-mounted tap sits on the bench or basin deck, while a wall-mounted spout leaves the sink clear but needs pipework in the wall, which is best planned before tiling.

Match the tap to the hole count in your sink or basin. A one-hole mixer will not fit a basin drilled for three. Check this before you buy, because a plumber cannot enlarge a ceramic basin hole on site.

What the plumber checks before and after fitting

Before fitting, the plumber checks the condition of the isolation valves and flexible hoses, because a new tap on an old failing hose is a false saving. They check that hot is on the correct side and that the supply pressure suits the tap, since some designs expect a minimum pressure to work properly.

After fitting, the tap is run on both hot and cold, the aerator is flushed of grit, and every joint is checked for weeps, including the ones under the bench that you cannot see. Ask the plumber to show you the isolation valves so you know where to shut water off in a future leak.

Replacing a tap in a rental or a shared property

If you rent, check with your rental provider before replacing a tap, since fixtures belong to the property. In a unit, check whether the isolation valve for your tap is inside your unit or on a shared line. A plumber can tell you where it is.

Keep the old tap parts if the rental provider asks for them, and keep the invoice.

Guides worth reading

• What Causes a Leaking Tap and How to Fix It

Related plumbing services

• Leaking Taps: Dripping taps fixed with new washers, cartridges or full replacement.
• Toilet Repairs and Installation: Running, leaking and faulty toilets repaired, plus new toilet installation.
• Shower Repairs: Leaking, dripping and low-flow showers repaired.
• Sink and Basin Plumbing: Leaking and slow-draining sinks, basins and traps repaired or replaced.
• Emergency plumbing is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week

Talk to GSA Plumbing Services

Call 0401 041 103 or send an enquiry on the contact page. We work across Geelong, Melbourne and surrounding suburbs.